Calvin Klein S/S27’s Minimalism Is Fantastic—Now Show It on More Bodies

Calvin Klein S/S27 is minimalism as everyone knows it: clean, restrained, and deeply committed to making simple clothes look desirable. Veronica Leoni isn’t doing anything radical with the house codes per se. She doesn’t really have to when being precise is more than enough. 

Look past the expected neutrals and flashes of red and blue come through, with sheer fabrics and textured finishes adding interest without demanding attention. This is a collection that knows exactly when to stop, and that confidence is refreshing at a time when fashion can get so preoccupied with being impressive.

Calvin Klein Keeps American Minimalism Intact

There will inevitably be people who look at S/S27 and complain that they’ve seen it all before, and that’s understandable. American minimalism has been revisited endlessly. And yet, Leoni understands that simplicity leaves plenty of room for a designer to have a point of view, especially when the smallest choices become noticeable. Even the grid patterns and pinstripes never disturb the collection’s restraint. 

If this S/S27 outing proves anything, it’s that minimalism refuses to die because of the possibilities it can offer.

Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy is an easy reference given her own history with Calvin Klein. S/S27 also recalls another familiar figure: the polished New York office woman. Leoni dresses her with an understanding of where the clothes need to meet the body. The closer silhouettes follow the figure beautifully, while coats gain their strength from structured shoulders. And yes, we dare to say that this grown-up way of dressing is looking aspirational again. 

Alex Eala Joins Calvin Klein’s NYFW Front Row

RELATED: Alex Eala Is Officially Now On Fashion’s Radar

For Filipinos, Alex Eala sitting front row only makes this show more exciting. Her presence comes at a point when her relationship with fashion is becoming increasingly serious. After being noticed by Anna Wintour, she’s officially attending one of New York Fashion Week’s biggest shows. Calvin Klein’s refinement suits her very well, making it easy to imagine this front-row appearance becoming one of many.

Calvin Klein S/S27 Leaves Size Inclusivity an Open Question

Unfortunately, as much as S/S27 pays such close attention to how clothes fit a lady, every woman on the runway fits the model ideal of being tall and slender. The pencil skirts look fantastic following narrow hips, and Leoni’s tailoring is beautifully judged on the proportions presented. But what happens once those proportions change? A fuller stomach alters the way a slip falls, just as a larger bust changes how a fitted top sits.

None of this means the clothes would look worse. They could appear just as beautiful, but Calvin Klein doesn’t give us the opportunity to find out. It’s an omission that’s frustrating. Plenty of women are already enamored by this collection. Calvin Klein could have invited more of them into its vision of the future, while keeping everything from its past worth preserving.

Photos: CALVIN KLEIN (via Instagram) and ALEX EALA (via Instagram)

Anya Oxyn

Senior Fashion Writer

Formerly a stylist who immersed herself intimately within the Philippine fashion circuit for over three years, Anya has refined her transformative, hands-on experience into an insightful voice for MEGA Asia as a Senior Fashion Writer.

Her editorial pursuit possesses three facets: her time as an essayist during her education at Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila, her extensive experience in digital media and strategic storytelling, and her belief that fashion has a beating heart deeply intertwined with art, culture, society, and humanity itself that is worth uncovering.

Anya’s versatile pen spans a dynamic range of subjects, including emerging local designers, global luxury houses, beauty trends, film and television fashion analysis, cultural op-eds, major events, and beyond.

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