Fashion never sleeps. After all, it’s always fashion week somewhere. While New York, London, Milan, and Paris are treated like the grand slams of the style circuit, their Asian counterparts often get slotted into the “cool but niche” category. This is odd, given that inclusivity, diversity, and an appetite for the unexpected are hallmarks of the modern fashion audience. Not to mention, Asian shoppers seem to have more money than most. If anything, Gen Z and Millennials are the most well-traveled generations yet—digitally, physically, and aesthetically. But why aren’t Seoul, Tokyo, and Shanghai Fashion Weeks commanding the same breathless coverage?
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It certainly isn’t a question of creativity. Asian fashion has long set the pace for global trends, from the omnipresence of K-fashion to the unwavering influence of Japanese streetwear. Designers from the region have consistently pushed the envelope, shaping everything from avant-garde tailoring to viral street style moments. Yet, their fashion weeks haven’t set off the kind of alarm that sends buyers and editors stampeding through showroom doors.
That’s changing. Slowly, but unmistakably. The Asian invasion is loud—not in the form of pop stars or internet-breaking models, but through a wave of designers, artisans, and creatives refining their aesthetic into something that speaks to both mass appeal and niche markets with unparalleled imagination. Their craftsmanship is world-class, their perspectives fresh, and their execution razor-sharp.
Of course, there are hurdles. Economic downturns, erratic scheduling, local designers being lured to the Big Four—it’s a constant battle. Then, the real nightmare: convincing buyers that an It-brand might emerge from a place outside the Western fashion capitals. But if fashion has taught us anything, it’s that the underdog always ends up on top.
Seoul Fashion Week F/W25
Seoul Fashion Week has been inching toward domination, fueled by the ever-expanding K-wave. But unlike its entertainment industry, where K-pop and K-dramas effortlessly ascend, fashion has had to fight a little harder for its seat at the table. This season, however, the showcase‘s approach felt particularly attuned to the times, especially with its embrace of technology.
Fashion and tech have always had a complicated relationship—one part fascination, one part existential crisis. The rise of AI has designers enthralled but terrified, while digital fashion still struggles to prove its real-world relevance. But in Seoul, these tensions have been transformed into a creative symbiosis, with designers integrating innovation into their craft rather than treating it as a gimmick.
Daily Mirror, a brand known for its gender-fluid tailoring, took inspiration from video artist Paik Nam-june, channeling his experimental spirit into deconstructed silhouettes. Futuristic designer Hannah Shin collaborated with the Korea Advanced Institute of Science & Technology (KAIST) on a collection titled Cosmogony, featuring PolyJet 3D-printed elements fused with traditional Korean craft. In a landscape where fashion and tech often clash, Seoul managed to make them dance.
Tokyo Fashion Week F/W25
“Classic avant-garde innovation” may seem contradictory, but Tokyo thrives on paradoxes. The city’s reputation for unpredictable, high-concept fashion remains intact, but this season’s showcase, also known as Rakuten Fashion Week, brought a new level of balance—eccentricity with elegance.
Tatsuya Tamada’s Tamme delivered a masterclass in military-inspired tailoring, proving that utilitarianism can be as striking as it is functional. Hatra, the brainchild of Keisuke Nagami, continued to push the boundaries of digital fashion, incorporating AI-generated prints that looked like they had traveled through the uncanny valley and come out more fashionable on the other side.
Meanwhile, Pillings, the knitwear label by LVMH Prize semi-finalist Ryota Murakami, reminded everyone why Japanese craftsmanship is revered worldwide. There are no half-measures in Tokyo—the Japanese don’t compromise; they deliver.
Shanghai Fashion Week F/W25
While the Chinese economy may be navigating a slowdown, Shanghai Fashion Week is operating at full speed. The influx of international brands this season was staggering with over 30 countries participating at the event, with names like Marchesa (U.S.), Lsoul (Vietnam), and Lorena Antoniazzi (Italy), setting up shop. Much of this can be credited to the Shanghai Government’s “First in Shanghai” initiative, which offers financial incentives for brands debuting in the city.
Shanghai isn’t only playing host, though; it’s nurturing its own next-gen talent. The creative platform showcase Labelhood continues to champion emerging designers, including Le Ngok by MEGA Fashion Awards 2024 “The Next Creative Visionary” nominee Carla Zhang. Meanwhile, the newly launched Sustasia Fashion Prize, co-hosted by the Shanghai Fashion Designer Association and sustainability expert Shaway Yeh, crowned its first winner. Among its eight finalists is Filipino avant-garde sustainability designer Jaggy Glarino.
If there’s one thing Asia has never lacked, it’s ambition. The future of fashion isn’t confined to the West. It’s being designed, reimagined, and perfected on the other side of the world. The tide is surging. The Asian fashion weeks aren’t waiting for recognition or asking for validation; they’re setting the agenda.
Photos: SEOUL FASHION WEEK (via website), TOKYO FASHION WEEK (via website), and SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK (via website and Instagram)
