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Artist Confidential

5 Secrets From the Pros That Changed How I Do My Makeup

When Jelly, Anthea, and Qua talk, consider it gospel. Flip through this cheat sheet to achieve your best makeup look yet.

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The great thing about beauty is that there’s always a better way to do it—you just have to know who to ask. The even better thing? We didn’t have to, because Anthea Bueno, Jelly Eugenio, and Mark Qua handed us a crash course in sharper, faster, and prettier with zero hesitation. Here are five makeup secrets (well, secrets no more) that are too good to gatekeep.

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Jelly Eugenio
Jelly Eugenio
Anthea Bueno
Anthea Bueno
Mark Qua
Mark Qua

The revelation happened in the second year of the Full Spectrum Makeup Masterclass—specifically in the beginner’s course, where the pros stripped us right back to basics (literally, too: we were told to remove makeup from half our face to compare our work with theirs). Here’s what stuck.

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Secret 1: Start With a Setting Spray

Secret 1: Start With a Setting Spray
Secret 1

It sounds counterintuitive, but trust Bueno who says and proves it works. A light layer of setting spray before anything else acts like a primer, smoothening the canvas and locking in longevity.

Secret 2: Color Correct with Certain Tones on the Zones

Bueno also broke down the face into zones: the cool zone (around the mouth and nose) and warm zone (the undereyes). The rule? Cool zones are neutralized with warmth, warm zones are neutralized with coolness. 

Secret 2: Color Correct with Certain Tones on the Zones
Secret 2

This means your dark undereyes need pinky-peachy correctors, while your acne or pigmentation would love the green cancellation. Apart from basic color theory, this brings instant evening out of skin tone. 

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Secret 3: Fix Undereye Creases with Less Product and Warm Fingers

Secret 3: Fix Undereye Creases with Less Product and Warm Fingers
Secret 3

Ah, the eternal enemy of a beauty girl: creases. The pros suggest that we use less product—especially if you’ve already color corrected—so you’re not building up layers that inevitably crack.

And if creases show up midday, don’t panic. It may also be due to the varying state of our undereyes. Instead, Eugenio suggests you warm your ring or middle finger and gently tap it out with long, featherlight motions. All without undoing your base!

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Secret 4: Highlight the Middle of your Cheeks

Secret 4: Highlight the Middle of your Cheeks
Secret 4

Forget the 2010s “highlight the high points of your face” rule. Qua recommends placing a highlight on the center of the cheeks. It may seem odd at first, but the payoff is unreal: a soft-focus glow that catches the light from every angle. You’ll look youthful and naturally luminous à la Thai star.

Secret 5: Apply Mascara Before Your Falsies

Secret 5: Apply Mascara Before Your Falsies
Secret 5

I’ve personally always skipped mascara when wearing falsies, because oily girls know the struggle of runs and panda eyes. But Eugenio’s advice changed my mind: a light coat before applying falsies gives them something extra to grip onto (aside from glue). This also makes them blend more seamlessly with your natural lashes. 

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You see, even the best routines can be edited and elevated. Treat these five secrets like your new beauty commandments, or better yet, as your RSVP to next year’s Full Spectrum. Fingers crossed we get a year three.


Photos: FULL SPECTRUM MAKEUP MASTERCLASS (via Instagram)

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