Tucked away in a quiet pocket of Parañaque, Calle at 9465 isn’t the kind of place you stumble into—it’s the kind you seek out. And this summer, it’s well worth the search. Their latest tasting menu, Playa, is a tribute to 1990s Filipino beach culture, one that captures “the smoky, briny, joyful flavors of a generation’s sun-soaked memories.” Reminiscent of the halcyon days of childhood summers, the menu is equal parts nostalgia and invention, staging a seaside memory with every course. So even if you’re not by the shore, Playa ensures you can still taste summer.
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A Taste of Summer in Courses
There is a particular kind of freedom that lives in Filipino summers: road trips with the windows down, plastic tubs of kutkutin passed around the backseat, sand clinging to damp swimsuits, and every meal tinged with salt and smoke. Playa leans into all of that with care and creativity. It doesn’t aim to replicate the beach; it recreates its mood yet still keeping the execution clean and deliberate. The menu takes familiar seaside flavors and gives them a fresh, creative spin—all shaped by the Calle team’s thoughtful approach.
The journey begins with Kutkutin, a snack mix of shingaling, fish chicharon, and salted panucha—simple, crunchy, and instantly recognizable. The Relleno follows with squid, vinegar, and onions, sharp and briny without being overpowering. Then comes Inihaw na Talong, served as a smoky babaganoush-style purée topped with seagrapes and bagoong.
The next few courses explore street staples and seafood favorites with subtle upgrades. Pancit Canton, a familiar Filipino favorite, is reworked with octopus and chili garlic oil for a savory, mildly spicy take. Hindi Kinilaw features cavalla, ponkan, and cucumber in an aguachile-style marinade. Binatog combines clams, corn, and toasted coconut—a comforting mix that feels both familiar and new. Ensaladang Mangga, often a side note, gets its moment with a sharp, balanced trio of green mango, salted egg, and tomato.
A palate cleanser of Pom-Gin, made with pomelo, gin, and house-fermented basil vinegar, preps the senses before the mains. Sugba offers tuna prepared in three ways, tied together with gata and toyo-mansi. Meanwhile, the Sugpo brings prawns cooked in aligue and served with atchara for contrast.
As the meal concludes, the dessert takes a turn for the unexpected. Adobo is usually the centerpiece of a Filipino meal, so to serve it as dessert is nothing short of surprising. Bayleaf ice cream sits on a soy-balsamic pavlova, with hints of honey garlic and black pepper that come through in surprising ways. It’s bold, maybe even polarizing, but undeniably clever. Matatamis, a delicate selection of petit fours, closes the meal with a familiar mix of coconut, mango, custard, and cocoa—the flavors of summer, distilled and refined.
A Culinary Collaboration Rooted in Memory
More than its ingredients or plating, Playa is grounded on collaboration. “Every plate is a group effort,” says co-owner and culinary director Mark Lesan Quiray. The result is a menu that feels lived in and honors memory without getting stuck in the past—rooted in culture, shaped by experience, and ready to be shared. For ₱3,990+, you don’t just get a full-course fine dining meal; you get a story, a snapshot, a taste of a time that’s gone but never really forgotten.
Visit Calle at 9465 at 9465 Alejandro St., Airport Village, Parañaque City. Reserve a table by calling 0995 900 7685 or by messaging them on Instagram.
Photos and Featured Image: CALLE AT 9465
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