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“I defy anyone to see our industry as ornamental when we are the cultural foundation supporting the creative sector.”
These were the bold words of British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir as she spearheaded her first London Fashion Week (LFW). For years, whispers suggested LFW had “lost its way.” Harsh as it was, the only path forward was resurgence. Thus, London’s creative heart was on full display during the recent showcase. In a season of personal excavation, designers took risks for all the world to see—and we’re taking notes.
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Layers Upon Layers
Spring layering might sound like an oxymoron, but it’s versatile and reliable especially during these trying times. Chopova Lowena stacked skirts at multiple waistlines; and Erdem’s corsets, ruffs, and pajama-like pants piled high.
The Pannier Comeback
Forget minimalism. In London, historical fashion was given new life through panniers. Erdem’s embroidered mini panniers accentuated skirts, while Simone Rocha twisted them into translucent, tiered layers.
Wear Your Wallpaper
If home is where the heart is, then the body is the new wall. This season, designers like Erdem, Harris Reed and Pauline Dujancourt leaned into textiles that looked like they came straight out of drawing rooms and salons.
Time of the Tartan
What’s London without tartan? Still London, but less fun. Daniel Lee at Burberry doubled down on it by experimenting with unexpected shades, while Emilia Wickstead softened it into airy plaids.
Finally, Fringe
Far from the boho-festival way we remember, Labrum London and Roksanda Ilinčić used fringe to give clothes more kinetic rhythm. The effect was tactile, dynamic, and impossible to ignore.
In Laura Weir’s white-knuckled gamble, London Fashion Week finds its pulse again. From panniers to plaids, wallpapers to fringe, this season’s raw and romantic renaissance shows that London’s designers are carving out a new cultural frontier. The risk is taken, the stakes are clear, and now all eyes are on how London’s fashion sector will lead. How far will it dare to go? Only time will tell.
Photos: CHOPOVA LOWENA, ERDEM, SIMONE ROCHA, HARRIS REED, PAULINE DUJANCOURT, BURBERRY, EMILIA WICKSTEAD, LABRUM LONDON, ROKSANDA, and JAWARA ALLEYNE
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