Demna, we knew you had it in you. After a year of figuring out what he wants from Gucci, the creative director finally looks settled for S/S27. “The Store Show” has the expensive swagger we have been waiting for. And the best part? In spite of the emphasis on commercial appeal, his latest collection still feels like him.
Demna Plays by the Rules for Gucci S/S27
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A year into his role, Demna calls S/S27 his first “complete personal vision” for Gucci. We can see the confidence from the moment the men arrive with their collars raised. The tailoring is classic, and the attitude is a tad spoiled. Immediately, our brows rise. Was the creative director following the “old money” codes of the house? Why, yes.
That isn’t to say he just plays it safe. Enormous Horsebit hardware across skirts catches our eye with how shameless it looks. The layered belts are just as good.
When his women finally arrive, they exude the polish of rich equestriennes with heavier eye makeup. Brilliant. He doesn’t abandon his natural penchant for sensuality, either. Pointed shoulders add some bite, but the dresses—worn by his Gucci muses Alex Consani, and Anok Yai—hug their bodies very well.
It’s worth noting that the final nude-colored number is the look Demna is most proud of, as the entire garment is held together by a teardrop-shaped metal weight. It’s a clever little detail.
As for who came to see Demna’s new Gucci in person, XG’s COCONA, PP Krit, Billkin, Park Gyu-young, Hwang In-youp, Cardi B, Shawn Mendes, Bianca Jagger, and Donatella Versace were among the stars seated in the front row for “The Store Show.”
Final verdict: Yes, Demna’s Gucci finally gets its act together. Consider the line affectionate. If Gucci is about being seen, this season knows exactly what it wants you to see.
Photos: GUCCI (via Instagram)
Frequently Asked Questions
Demna calls Gucci S/S27, titled “The Store Show,” his first “complete personal vision” for the house, one year into his role as creative director.
Gucci muses Alex Consani and Anok Yai wore several of the collection’s body-hugging dresses on the runway, including the nude-colored final look Demna says he is most proud of.
Demna singled out the final nude-colored look, which is held together entirely by a teardrop-shaped metal weight rather than traditional construction.
Front-row guests included XG’s COCONA, PP Krit, Billkin, Park Gyu-young, Hwang In-youp, Cardi B, Shawn Mendes, Bianca Jagger, and Donatella Versace.
Standout details included raised collars, classic tailoring, oversized Horsebit hardware on skirts, layered belts, pointed shoulders, and heavier eye makeup on the women’s looks.
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