If Jonathan Anderson’s Dior woman has spent the past year gathering flowers and wandering through the woods, someone has finally reminded her that she has work in the morning.
For S/S27 at Paris Fashion Week, she emerges from the trees at Le Bassin Octogonal in the Jardin des Tuileries dressed accordingly, or at least as much as one could expect from a woman whose wardrobe appears to have grown alongside her. Nature has become familiar territory for Anderson at Dior, and seeing his ethereal heroine acquire implied responsibility gives this season its charm. Apparently, woodland fairies have to clock in, too!
Petals, Pleats, and Natural Imperfection Flourish at Dior S/S27
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Thankfully, employment hasn’t dampened her spirit. Shirts, trousers, and proper jackets enter Anderson’s world without disturbing the softness he has cultivated at Dior. The Northern Irish designer described S/S27 through lightness and the idea of treating tailleur as flou, which strips tailoringTailoringThe craft of cutting, shaping, and fitting garments, especially suits, jackets, and trousers, precisely to the body. Good tailoring relies on structure, proportion, and careful hand and machine work, andGo to Tailoring Glossary of much of its usual severity in his hands.
Chinese wénwán walnuts given to guests before the show offered a clue to Anderson’s fascination with asymmetry and the beauty of forms that refuse to match perfectly. S/S27 carries the thought beautifully through fine pleatingPleatingThe technique of folding fabric and pressing or stitching the folds into place to add texture, volume, and movement. Styles include knife, box, accordion, and sunray pleats, and pleated skirts,Go to Pleating Glossary, uneven hems, and flowers in glorious abundance. Nature rarely bothers with a ruler, and Dior sees no reason to either.
Anderson exercises more restraint with the accessories this season, as neutral colors and additional hardware give his bags and shoes a practical sensibility fit for a woman with a fuller calendar. Complete restraint was never going to happen, though. Colorful fringe spills from a handful of bags, and a metal swan clasp turns one purse into a tiny object of fantasy because Anderson just couldn’t resist.
Of course, a Dior show comes with a front row worthy of the occasion. Rihanna, Jennifer Lawrence, Rosalía, and Anya Taylor-Joy sat alongside JISOO, Hyunjin, Wonyoung, Dilraba Dilmurat, Lingling Kwong, and Orm Kornnaphat for another star-studded showing at Paris Fashion Week.
Our woodland fairy may have left the trees with places to be, but she hasn’t become any less herself in the process. S/S27 simply gives her a wardrobe for the life waiting beyond them—flowers, peculiarities, and all.
Photos: DIOR (via Instagram)
Frequently Asked Questions
Jonathan Anderson designed Dior’s S/S27 collection, shown at Le Bassin Octogonal in the Jardin des Tuileries during Paris Fashion Week, building on his continued exploration of nature at the house.
Anderson described S/S27 through lightness and the idea of treating tailleur as flou, softening tailoring’s usual structure with fine pleating, uneven hems, and abundant floral details.
Dior gave guests Chinese wénwán walnuts before the show, a nod to Anderson’s interest in asymmetry and forms that don’t match perfectly.
Accessories leaned practical with neutral colors and added hardware, though colorful fringe spilled from several bags and one purse featured a metal swan clasp.
Front-row guests included Rihanna, Jennifer Lawrence, Rosalía, Anya Taylor-Joy, JISOO, Hyunjin, Wonyoung, Dilraba Dilmurat, Lingling Kwong, and Orm Kornnaphat.
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