It’s an End of an Era for Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello’s final bow for Saint Laurent prompts us to revisit his most memorable design signatures.

By Anya Oxyn 59 minutes ago

Ten years is a long time to leave an impression, especially in an industry that’s perpetually eager for the next big thing. And yet, when news broke that Anthony Vaccarello was leaving Saint Laurent after a decade as its creative director, many were left with mixed emotions, including us.

The Belgian designer’s departure brings an extraordinary chapter to a close. Since succeeding Hedi Slimane in 2016, Vaccarello was at the helm of the label Yves Saint Laurent built. As the Monsieur sought the freedom that clothing could offer by famously borrowing from menswear to expand the possibilities of a woman’s wardrobe, Vaccarello developed his own understanding of that.

Anthony Vaccarello

His collections could be severe, seductive, extravagant, and occasionally outrageous…but no less appealing. Thus, his final outing at the recent Paris Fashion Week now carries an added poignancy, considering what he said then:

“A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains.”
— Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent S/S27

And with his words in mind, we look back at the signatures that defined his era.

Masculine Tailoring

Since Yves Saint Laurent introduced Le Smoking in 1966, masculine tailoringTailoringThe craft of cutting, shaping, and fitting garments, especially suits, jackets, and trousers, precisely to the body. Good tailoring relies on structure, proportion, and careful hand and machine work, andGo to Tailoring Glossary has remained one of the house’s most enduring identifiers. Vaccarello revisited that legacy in his S/S25 offering, with his models wearing bomber jackets over suits.

Architectural Shoulders

The designer also had a fondness for wide, strong shoulders. For F/W25, he pushed that proportion to extraordinary widths, even on his minidresses. The silhouette gave his women an imposing presence.

Knife-Point Pumps

We have Corrado De Biase to thank for the dangerously beautiful shoes, too. Working closely with Vaccarello as Saint Laurent’s footwear design director, he developed the elongated, knife-point pumps that accompanied many of Vaccarello’s runway shows.

Statement Jewelry & Eyewear

And what would a Saint Laurent woman be without her accessories? His runway looks were frequently accompanied by oversized earrings, sculptural jewelry, and the imposing Howl sunglasses, which concealed much of the face behind their dark lenses. All combined, they gave his women an air of mystery.

Whoever succeeds him will inherit a house with an extraordinary history. And as much as we’ll miss him at Saint Laurent, we have every reason to believe that whatever he turns his hand to next will be just as golden.

Photos: SAINT LAURENT (via Website) S/S27, F/W26, S/S26, F/W25, and S/S25

Anya Oxyn

Senior Fashion Writer

Formerly a stylist who immersed herself intimately within the Philippine fashion circuit for over three years, Anya has refined her transformative, hands-on experience into an insightful voice for MEGA Asia as a Senior Fashion Writer.

Her editorial pursuit possesses three facets: her time as an essayist during her education at Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila, her extensive experience in digital media and strategic storytelling, and her belief that fashion has a beating heart deeply intertwined with art, culture, society, and humanity itself that is worth uncovering.

Anya’s versatile pen spans a dynamic range of subjects, including emerging local designers, global luxury houses, beauty trends, film and television fashion analysis, cultural op-eds, major events, and beyond.

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