If art were a religion, Akio Barreiro is a disciple-turned-prophet ready to proclaim his own sartorial story in his tailored pieces
Religion is a unifying force known to man since time immemorial. In Akio Barreiro’s exploration of his fashion philosophy, he anchors his faith for this collection in a catholic sense of things. However, “Love and the Pilgrim” is anything but a mere presentation of silhouettes and symbols that of a religious habit. Just like any thoughtful believer would, the designer takes his persistent inquiry on the credence of fashion into the runway and challenges its boundaries through his craftsmanship.
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Akio stitches his grasp of construction into monastic frames, particularly in necklines—layered, upright, v-shaped, or accessorized. He takes the circular geometry of the amice and guimpe, transforming it into a modern crop top hemmed with a tailored waist belt. Other religious elements are more straightforward such as the priestly red cincture belt and the use of velvetVelvetA soft, luxurious woven fabric with a dense, short pile that gives it a rich texture and deep sheen. Historically associated with royalty and wealth, velvet is used in eveningwear,Go to Velvet Glossary, a fabric known to cloth statues of saints. Vestments and emblems such as crosses, a rosary, and a scapular are part of a believer’s everyday use and wear. With its appliqué form in Barreiro’s collection, can it be treated as a commentary on the commandment of praising false gods and symbols?
As an individual, Akio is a voracious consumer of art forms whose inspiration comes from punk music, Yohji Yamamoto, and for this collection, the painting of Edward Burne-Jones called “Love and the Pilgrim.” This is where catholic—a word synonymous to diverse—comes into play. While everything is bound by his signature tailoringTailoringThe craft of cutting, shaping, and fitting garments, especially suits, jackets, and trousers, precisely to the body. Good tailoring relies on structure, proportion, and careful hand and machine work, andGo to Tailoring Glossary style, his experimentation brings a modern iteration of an angel’s wings from a painting.
In an earlier conversation, he mentioned a more detailed take on elements such as texture and structure. In the runway, he gives asymmetrical sleeves, a feathered texture on the hips, kimono-like silhouettes of the sleeves and the bodice. At the MEGA Young Designers Competition 2024, Akio Barreiro took us to church and made us a believer of his craft; one which binds varied influences into a coherent collection.
Photography JHARWIN CASTANEDA. Creative Direction BRIE VENTURA. Sittings Editor MIA CASTRO
Photography by ED SIMON of KLIQ INC.
Official fashion fund and grand prize partner SECURITY BANK
Co-presented by BYS PHILIPPINES
Special thanks to AYALA MALLS, LILY AND MATILDA, and HILLTOP BY EVERYDAY COFFEE ROASTERS
