Simone Rocha explores her distinct design approach and integration with Jean Paul Gaultier’s bold legacy for their Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection
She cleverly incorporates iconic elements, involved with playful and provocative design approaches. Long captivated by the concept, she maintains a persistent fascination with expressing and celebrating the unrestrained vitality and unpredictable nature of female physicality. Thus, this is Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha.
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Rocha merged her female gaze with Gaultier’s bold legacy. Provocative in essence, yet deeply enthralling in its femininity. This isn’t couture crafted by man; unmistakably, it’s the artistry of none other than Rocha.
In this marriage of two distinct designers—one soaring through femininity, the other navigating seas of fragrances and stripes—how did they collaborate without eclipsing each other? This union isn’t a tempest; it’s a refreshing snow cone on a scorching summer day, playfully enjoyed on a yacht, adorned in a striped bodysuit with ribbons. Gaultier without stripes is inconceivable, just as Rocha without a bow is unimaginable.
Tulles, ruffles, ribbons—bows graced corsets, sheer revels embraced the skin, skirts spun in a seductive cadence. With a romantic touch, hips embraced a subtle exaggeration, sleeves unfolded like soft secrets, and bustiers and gowns became dreamlike with the sparkling magic of crystals and pearls.
A major contrast between the designers is in their approach to silhouettes. Rocha famously leans towards volume, while Gaultier has always highlighted the body in a more sensual way, leaning into body-hugging shapes. However, they both appreciate vintageVintageClothing and accessories that are at least 20 years old and represent the style of a particular era, valued for their quality and uniqueness. Vintage shopping supports sustainable fashion, andGo to Vintage Glossary luxury and the power of bold femininity.
Due to this, Rocha extended her creative boundaries, almost to the shores. Envision the striped bodysuit, where ribbons are artfully stitched—a nod to Gaultier’s maritime influence. Transitioning to the carnival, she transforms cone busts into horns, offering a devilish twist, while corsetryCorsetryFashion inspired by the structured, boned corset, which cinches the waist and shapes the torso. Once underwear, corsetry now appears as outerwear in bustiers, corset tops, and gowns, adding dramaGo to Corsetry Glossary takes a refreshing turn from restraint to a breath of liberation.
The mutual appreciation for tulleTulleA lightweight, sheer netting fabric used to create volume, veils, and airy overlays in gowns, skirts, and bridal wear. Soft and romantic, tulle gives a dreamy, ballerina-like effect, and hasGo to Tulle Glossary, a shared element in the designers’ repertoire, influenced Rocha’s continuation of Gaultier’s legacy. Standout pieces in a palette of black, pale pink, and nude included voluminous silhouettes and gracefully draped dresses. Despite diverse design approaches, Rocha’s touch paid homage to Gaultier’s essence, making the collection a celebrated win in haute couture. Who knew bows could be such a hit in couture? Simone Rocha did.
Photos and Featured Image: SIMONE ROCHA
