Women Win: The Female Creative Director Also Rises

Fashion loves a show—be it a runway coup, a viral dress, or a creative director reshuffle that keeps us on our toes. But in the past year, something far more seismic has been unfolding, almost quietly: the slow but undeniable rise of female creative directors. A shift so overdue, it feels less like progress and more like a long-delayed apology. In an industry that quite literally survives on women—built on their spending power, dictated by their desires, and indebted to their silhouettes — why is the top seat still largely reserved for men? And now that a few more women are finally at the helm, what exactly is changing?

RELATED: Women Win: Defining Cultural Moments in the Year So Far

A Look at the Landscape

In 2023, only 8 of the top 30 leading luxury brands had female creative directors. By 2025, that number has risen to 10 out of 35—about 28.5% of major fashion houses—marking progress. While this figure signifies progress, it also underscores the enduring gender disparity where the primary consumers are women. Why does this imbalance persist? Is it a vestige of archaic systems, political inertia, or maybe a reluctance to deviate from the status quo?

Historically, fashion’s wheel was steered by male designers who not only shaped aesthetics but also influenced socio-political narratives. Christian Dior, for instance, revolutionized post-World War II fashion with his “New Look”, symbolizing a return to femininity and prosperity. Yves Saint Laurent broke barriers by introducing prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) collections, democratizing fashion, and making high style accessible. These pioneers, among others, laid the groundwork, but their dominance also set a precedent that sidelined female creatives.

The Women at Large

Today, a cadre of formidable women is challenging the traditional paradigms:

Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior

As the first woman to lead the house, Chiuri infuses her designs with feminist discourse, harmonizing aesthetic brilliance with empowering narratives and influential female figures as inspirations. 

Sarah Burton at Givenchy

Renowned for crafting the Princess of Wales’s wedding dress, Burton’s recent appointment to Givenchy marks a historic moment, as she becomes the second woman to hold this position at an LVMH-owned brand. Recently, she debuted her first collection for the house to acclaim.  

Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta

Trotter honed her expertise at the luxury British brand Joseph before revitalizing Lacoste’s aesthetic. Her upcoming debut is highly anticipated, with many expecting her to honor Bottega Veneta’s craftsmanship while infusing it with her contemporary touch.

Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein

Leoni’s appointment marks a fresh start for the brand, reviving its high-end Calvin Klein Collection after a brief hiatus. As the first woman to lead the house, she brings a minimalist yet dynamic approach that’s set to resonate with a global audience.

Donatella Versace at Versace

Donatella Versace has kept the house her brother built as brash, bold, and desirable as ever. A stalwart in the industry, she continues to embody the brand’s unapologetic ethos.

Miuccia Prada at Prada and Miu Miu

Prada’s intellectual approach to design challenges conventions, incorporating a feminist philosophy into her aesthetic codes. Meanwhile, Miu Miu—often seen as Prada’s younger sister—has taken a playful yet subversive approach, cementing itself as the world’s most sought-after brand in 2024.

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermès

Her understated yet luxurious designs honor Hermès’ legacy while appealing to contemporary tastes. As of late, the high-luxury house has announced its foray into hauté couture.

Stella McCartney at Stella McCartney

A pioneer in sustainable fashion, McCartney continues to show that ethics and innovation can go hand in hand—without sacrificing style or intrigue.

Chemena Kamali at Chloé

Kamali’s designs reflect a deep understanding of Chloé’s feminine and free-spirited identity, reviving greatly the bohemian trend with a new perspective across the industry.

Sandra Choi at Jimmy Choo

Choi’s designs continue to elevate the brand’s status in luxury footwear and accessories, keeping Jimmy Choo at the forefront of red-carpet fashion while expanding its influence in contemporary style.

The Asian Perspective

Southeast Asia in particular has seen a rise in female entrepreneurs shaping their own markets. Rachel Lim built Love, Bonito into a brand that speaks directly to the modern Asian woman, understanding her needs in ways Western labels often fail to. Cara Limjap’s Halohalo—while currently on pause—proved there’s space for Filipino fashion beyond couture and pageantry with its effortless, beachy aesthetic. Patty Ang turned Patton into an internationally recognized name, with Emily Ratajkowski fronting a campaign.

Beyond fashion labels, several Southeast Asian female entrepreneurs have significantly impacted the industry. Reese Fernandez-Ruiz co-founded Rags2Riches, a sustainable fashion enterprise in the Philippines that transforms scrap materials into high-fashion items while providing livelihood opportunities for local artisans. Denica Riadini-Flesch leads SukkhaCitta, an Indonesian brand empowering rural women artisans and preserving traditional craftsmanship through ethical fashion. Farah Khan, founder of the Melium Group and her eponymous label, has played a key role in bringing international luxury brands to Malaysia while celebrating Southeast Asian artistry. Mona Patel, an Indian entrepreneur, has merged fashion with philanthropy—her nonprofit, Couture for Cause, has raised over $400,000 for education initiatives, proving that fashion with purpose holds real-world impact.

While the Western industry grapples with gender imbalances, Southeast Asia—challenges and all—proves what happens when women take charge: they don’t just succeed, they set the agenda.

Where Do We Go From Here? 

The fashion industry stands at a crossroads, grappling with an identity crisis amidst rapid cultural and technological shifts. With designers being hired and fired faster than ever, the industry is having a full-blown identity crisis — and this is not just about sartorial trends. This juncture presents an opportunity to embrace diversity in leadership. 

There’s a sliver of something promising. If more women are given the chance to shape fashion’s future, what will it look like? And what happens when they’re not there to fix or uphold a system that was never built for them — but to change it? Women, when entrusted with creative authority, bring nuanced perspectives that resonate with a broader audience. If fashion is about reinvention, then let’s start at the top.

Photos: GIVENCHY, BOTTEGA VENETA, NET-A-PORTER, CONTEXT GALLERY, MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI (via Facebook), VERONICA LEONI, CHEMENA KAMALI, MONA PATEL, WHAT MIUCCIA PRADA WORE, and OK MCCAUSLAND (via Instagram); MEGA ARCHIVES