Simone Bellotti Welcomes a New Look of Minimalism For Jil Sander S/S26

Minimalism is the fashion world’s most misquoted philosophy. People think it means “plain”, “boring,” or “I only wear black.” In truth, the best minimalism has always had teeth: an insistence on form, proportion, and precision that speaks louder than any sequin. Jil Sander knew this back in 1973, when she built her house on Bauhaus clarity while everyone else was chasing excess. Half a century later, the new creative director, Simone Bellotti, proves that simplicity can still surprise in his debut.

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Under his careful eye, the Jil Sander S/S26 collection feels like minimalism has evolved. It’s still serene and restrained, but with renewed energy. Much like Jonathan Anderson’s early work at Dior, Bellotti lays down a foundation of clean, intelligent silhouettes that honor the house’s DNA while leaving room to grow. In his own words, the collection embodies “apparent simplicity”, a philosophy that sits at the intersection of modernist design and everyday wearability.

Classic Sander hallmarks remain: charcoal grays, crisp whites, taupes, and blacks form a calm canvas. Bellotti injects vitality with electric blue, primary red, and ultraviolet. The shapes, too, tease with experimentation: pencil skirts sliced diagonally like Lucio Fontana’s slashed canvases, coats with nipped waists and dropped shoulders, and layered knits that look deliberately shrunken. Geometric paneling, slim suits with roomy pockets, and armor-like coats convey structure without weight, while a violet smock dress and liquid chrome skirt nod to the house’s avant-garde instincts.

Let’s not forget the streets; the streetwear style is what the brand finds itself most of the time. Jil Sander has long been an obsession for those who like their fashion sharp but unshouted—editors in the front row, stylists off duty, and the occasional sneakerhead pairing a Sander coat with Air Force 1s. Bellotti’s bond makes the clothes instantly wearable but never generic, which is why the brand’s pieces will continue to thrive on sidewalks as much as they do on runways. In this collection, the sculptural skirts feel destined to land on Tokyo street style blogs.

Minimalism is no longer an absence but a careful orchestration of line, proportion, and color. It’s clarity with depth, control with surprise, and energy beneath calm — a new minimalism for 2025 that isn’t afraid of bold tones and a revitalized look.

Photos: JIL SANDER