Runway Rundown: Daniel Roseberry Gets Deep with Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W26

Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W26, titled The Abyss, is Daniel Roseberry’s exploration of the mysteries of the deep ocean — blurring the boundaries between humanity, technology, and imagination. The collection features sculptural silhouettes, tentacle-like forms, glossy molded corsets, glowing breastplates, and skin-like textures evoking deep-sea creatures mid-transformation, achieved by pairing centuries-old couture craftsmanship with materials including silicone and latex.

Daniel Roseberry is the creative director of Schiaparelli, the Surrealist-founded French couture house. Known for pushing fashion toward its stranger, more conceptual edges, Roseberry has built a body of work at Schiaparelli that consistently references the house’s original Surrealist DNA while introducing contemporary materials and cultural provocations — as seen most dramatically in The Abyss collection.

The Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W26 front row included Emma Corrin, Michelle Yeoh, and Bad Bunny — a notably eclectic guest list reflecting the house’s crossover appeal across film, prestige television, and Latin music culture.

The Abyss collection pairs traditional haute couture craftsmanship with unconventional materials including silicone and latex, used to create the collection’s signature glossy corsets, skin-like textures, and sculptural deep-sea forms. The juxtaposition of centuries-old couture technique with industrial materials is central to Roseberry’s conceptual approach.

The Abyss continues Schiaparelli’s founding Surrealist tradition — established by Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s — of treating fashion as a vehicle for the strange, the dreamlike, and the provocative. Roseberry’s deep-sea imagery, tentacle forms, and dissolution of the boundary between human and creature are direct extensions of Surrealism’s interest in transformation, the unconscious, and the uncanny.