If a woman begins and ends with her body, then her aura surpasses its limits. Invisible as it may be, it travels with her as she moves, colored by her experiences, saturated with her intentions, altered by her emotions, and interpreted differently by everyone she meets. It’s difficult enough to describe, much less turn into clothing. But for Kelvin Morales, this intangible quality is where he expands his practice.
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Inside Kelvin Morales’ First Womenswear Collection
Those familiar with his work know that this Filipino designer has spent years immersed in menswear. AURA—his latest release, inspired by the different energies of people in his life—marks his entrance into womenswear.
How does one approach that first collection? As Morales describes his process, he reveals that he meticulously prepared for it. “I’ve always wanted to create womenswear, but I never wanted to release something I didn’t fully understand,” he shares with MEGA. “I took the time to research women’s bodies, how they move, and what they need from clothing.”
Morales doesn’t reveal much about the references he consulted during the collection’s development. Even more intriguing is how tight-lipped he remains about the people who inspired him. What he does discuss, however, is his primary challenge while creating AURA: color.
“It’s one of my weaknesses as a designer,” he admits candidly. “I wanted to work with aura colors while still making the collection feel like Kelvin Morales. I didn’t want it to become too colorful or feel like a rainbow because the aura to me feels much more mysterious and emotional. Some aura colors are muted and quiet.”
Through repeated experimentation, Morales found a palette of pale shades capable of suggesting energy without attempting to illustrate it too neatly. After all, an aura is difficult to pin down. Its color may say something about its wearer, though never everything. There’s variety in texture as well, for Morales’ pieces resist a fixed idea of femininity.
AURA Leaves Its True Meaning to the Women
It’s his final look, the AURA Corset, that seems different from the rest. It surrounds its wearer with a cage-like structure from which slender rods and delicate pieces extend. On one hand, it resembles a tree in spring, alive with new growth. On the other, those same outward-facing rods could seem defensive—someone protecting her space while keeping the rest of the world at a careful distance.
Morales welcomes both readings.
“When I create a collection, I want people to have their own interpretation. I don’t want to tell them what to think or feel. I enjoy hearing different interpretations because everyone brings their own experiences and perspective to the work.”
—KELVIN MORALES
It’s disarmingly respectful. He doesn’t presume that understanding a woman’s needs in clothing gives him ownership over what his garments should mean to her. All he provides are his pieces and their originating thoughts.
His latest release also gives him room to continue learning. He sees AURA as a sign of growth for his label. “It’s not a one-time project,” he confirms. “Moving forward, we want to consistently develop both menswear and womenswear, with the goal of releasing one collection for each every year.”
It’s a certain answer from someone so good at navigating uncertain things. Much like his AURA lineup, Kelvin Morales is finding his next direction in that space between what is seen and what is felt. As for what his next chapter will look like come next year, who can really say? But without a doubt, it’ll be beautiful and profound.
Photos: KELVIN MORALES
Photographed by KARL KING AGUÑA. Creative direction by KELVIN MORALES. Styling by GENO ESPIDOL and ANZ HIZON. Makeup and Hair by ZIDJIAN PAUL.
