The New Dialogue of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at LOEWE S/S26

After more than a decade of Jonathan Anderson’s surrealist-inflected reign, LOEWE’s Spring/Summer 2026 show marked the beginning of a new chapter. Now under the creative direction of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the duo behind Proenza Schouler, the collection introduced what they themselves called “an opening gesture, the outset of a new dialogue.” It will take time for audiences to recalibrate to a different LOEWE after Anderson’s decade of whimsical trompe l’oeil and surreal silhouettes. But the first outing makes it clear that this is a house in transition, and the tone has shifted.

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From Beach to Bar to Bright Horizons

The mood was coastal—though not in a postcard-perfect sense. A mussel shell bag dangled like a tidepool relic, while a 3-D printed towel dress and utility jacket nodded to LOEWE’s signature humor, offering a wink without leaning into kitsch. A glass clutch shimmered like something caught in the sand.

Fishing references surfaced too: bucket hats tilted forward, while long shirts extended past the hem of tiny shorts, layered to look like more than one garment. It felt practical, yet playful, blurring functionality with illusion.

By nightfall, the collection drifted inland. A form-fitting dress with colored layers cascading at the back, wild fringe skirts, bomber jackets, and sharply striped pieces hinted at nightlife’s unruly spirit. Surf, asymmetry, and pre-crinkled fabrics coursed through the looks, while color-blocked leather grounded the collection in craft.

The Start of a Dialogue

If Anderson’s LOEWE was often surreal, McCollough and Hernandez’s debut is tactile and sunny. The colors sang—playful, saturated, yet controlled—hinting at a direction distinct from their Proenza Schouler days. It was less New York cool, more Mediterranean ease, a tonal shift that feels attuned to LOEWE’s Spanish roots.

The house describes this debut as a gesture of spirit and optimism—craft-rooted, vibrant, and sensorial. That feels accurate. It’s not a manifesto but a prologue: the first chapter in a story that will take time to settle in the minds of loyal LOEWE watchers.

What’s evident is that McCollough and Hernandez have resisted the temptation to overwrite the past. Instead, they’ve sketched the beginnings of their own vision—sunlit, tactile, and breezy—with enough intrigue to keep the audience waiting for more.

Photos: LOEWE