Inspired in part by the cult-favorite film Saltburn, the collection revels in contrasts: heritage meets eccentricity, tradition conspires with excess
Creative Director Daniel Lee took Burberry for a long, damp stroll through the English countryside this season—the kind where the air smells of wet tweed and grand estates hide their disrepair behind layers of brocade. If last season’s Burberry was fixated on strict utilitarianism, this collection luxuriated in the pleasures of getting a little lost in the decadence of it all. The runway felt like a country house weekend with a mischievous streak—stately, with just a hint of scandal.
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With the rumors of Lee’s potential move to Jil Sander swirling, his FW25 collection felt like a designer fully finding his stride at Burberry.
Outerwear, Burberry’s longstanding signature, came with the texture of old money and the ease of new. Trench coats were embossed in leather, jacquards nodded to tapestries, and shearling wrapped around shoulders with the sort of nonchalance that suggests one simply had to escape the drafty drawing room.
The Burberry check made appearances—peeking from beneath herringbone layers, cinched at the waist in silk scarves, or tucked just so beneath the collar of a structured overcoat, like a private joke between wearer and the house.
Lee skillfully combined aristocratic decay and city gloss cliches. Brocade jackets evoked the kind of wallpaper that whispers family secrets, while feathered trims alluded to the country set’s favorite game bird, now perched on the verge of excess. Silk pajamas belonged in a candlelit library, not a bedroom, where someone was almost certainly absent after a beautiful meltdown.
Then, there was the undeniable presence of Saltburn, which Lee confessed impacted the collection’s twisted elegance. The wardrobe of the doomed and decadent, condensed for commercial appeal is the aesthetic. It’s a tough line to toe, but Burberry values a well-cut line.
FW25 was a remastering of Burberry’s heritage. The house’s DNA remained intact, stitched into a drape and double-breasted silhouette, yet there was something playful in the mix. A collection for those who enjoy a long walk in the rain—ideally in a coat worth more than the car they arrived in. British luxury, at its most knowingly theatrical.
Photos: BURBERRY
