Gucci’s shift to quiet luxury was a bold move, and with Sabato De Sarno exiting, it seems the ‘Ancora’ experiment may have been too subdued for today’s landscape
Sabato De Sarno’s tenure at Gucci was as brief as it was deliberate. Appointed in 2023, he brought an end to the excesses of the Alessandro Michele era. Now, less than two years in, De Sarno is stepping away, leaving behind a vision of quiet luxury that, while critically praised, may not have been the right fit for a landscape that craves personality over polish.
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His departure comes amid creative changes across European heritage houses. Gucci, now without a creative lead, will present its Fall/Winter 2025 collection on February 25 under the guidance of its design office. The house’s new artistic direction has yet to be announced; change is once again on the horizon.
The End of ‘Ancora’?
Under De Sarno, Gucci stripped away the baroque theatrics of the past decade and embraced subtlety. His signature was Gucci Rosso Ancora, a rich, almost meditative red that symbolized a return to elegance, restraint, and minimalism. His collections, precise and pared-back, felt like a recalibration—one that critics lauded but consumers met with mixed enthusiasm. In an age where maximalism and personal expression reign, was Gucci’s pivot to quiet luxury ever going to last?
Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, acknowledged De Sarno’s contribution, stating: “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.” Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s Deputy CEO in charge of Brand Development, echoed this sentiment, emphasizing that Gucci’s future leadership will “continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.”
What’s Next for Gucci?
Gucci’s next chapter is already a hot topic of speculation. Will the house double down on De Sarno’s refined minimalism, or will it swing the pendulum back toward the eccentricity that made it a cultural juggernaut?
With an identity crisis, the luxury fashion landscape is in undoubtedly flux. Gucci must now decide how it wants to define itself in an industry that’s constantly shifting.
Whoever takes the helm next will have the challenge of making Gucci feel essential again—not just aesthetically, but culturally. In a time when fashion thrives on strong identities, the house’s next move might just be its most crucial yet.
Photos: GUCCI
